Arrival: Split


Leaving a place via the Sea sounds romantic and dramatic, the stuff out of movies. It was time to leave Hvar. I'm told that in the busy season that the place is where college kids from all over Europe come and hang out. 


But this was the off-season and we enjoyed the quieter atmosphere and especially the old town walks and the seaside promenade and the ever-changing color of the Adriatic Sea. And this romantic notion of getting on a boat and leaving is indeed ONLY the stuff of movies.

It seemed as if everyone on the island was leaving at 11 am in the morning. One of the ferries was late and the other had so many passengers that it took 25 minutes to unload. Anyway...we all got on but I've been to Ohio State football rallies that were less frantic.

        

No matter, we have arrived in Split. This city is the busiest I have seen and will see in the coming weeks. The sun was out, the crowds were "down" we were told. I would hate to see it in August. (By the way...schools here began on Sept 4.)


Along with the seaside atmosphere there is the old town feel....the photo above is of our street....Kovacica Ulica. It may not look like much but cars drive up and down it....granted, very slowly and it's safe but just a part of the crowded old section of town.

        

Picturesque and pricey.

       

The buildings may look quaint, but they have nearly all been re-habbed inside for tourists and locals to rent. Much in the same way that German Village looks old and authentic and carries major price tags for rentals and mortgages.

What I especially want to see in this city is Diocletian's Palace. He was a local boy-made good who became the Emporer of Rome after some tricky maneuvers and he not only ruled but built his retirement-palace on the seaside here in Split at the turn of the 4th Century AD. Today it forms about half of the old town. That will take some time to explore on another day.

       

While the crowds lingered in the seaside bars and cafes. More crowds walked the seaside promenade...the place to see and be seen. While the port handled countless ferries, charters, cruise ships and ocean going vessels. While all of that was going on. We walked to the western side of the city to see and NOT be seen.

                        

We came upon a park that used to be a cemetery, that used to be a monastery, that used to be a Roman ruins....that today is just a well worn park on the edge of the Adriatic which afforded some stunning views to the north and west. 

               

And if one could see across, passed some Croatian islands and then across the Adriatic......there would be Italy.


The best travel advice I was ever given was: when you are in a crowded touristy area, just go around the corner or down the street from the attractions and there you will find the true heart of the city. In this case, a simple walk a few blocks from Diocletian's Palace yielded these sea views with hardly any others around.

              

Having seen the Adriatic in brilliant sunlight we decided to find a place to see the sunset. Makaila looked at the map and spotted a huge metro park which was not too far away and which might afford views of the sea to the west.

              

Like all Croatian shorelines....it is rocks upon rocks upon stones. It looks as if the earth has been lifted up and replace sideways, exposing the layers of rocks from ages past. Everywhere it looks like this....layering. The seashore is the best place to examine this phenomenon.

               

The park was huge and filled with locals only, no tourists (save for two). People jogging, roller blading, walking their babies, just strolling. We were along the shore sort of...and we went to an outcropping and viewed the bay to the west for these unfiltered photos of a stunning sunset. And though it was dark going back....the park was still filled with locals enjoying the quiet warm night. Miles away the tourists were enjoying their cafes on the main harbor promenade.

        
We walked the city streets along with all the other locals and visitors, every corner brought another sight.

                

Split has a lot going for it and we look forward to experiencing more in the coming days.

       

Peace,  Bob















    






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